Windom's gear

These are some of the equipment choices we made and our results with them so far. See our systems page for wiring diagrams and other nitty-gritty installation details.  You can also see a more-or-less complete list of equipment aboard.

Power | House | Instruments | Ground tackle | Other | Hall of Fame

Power

• Batteries (installed 12/2005): When we returned to our boat, all our batteries were completely dead and unrevivable.  Because of our problems with equalizing the AGM batteries with our charging system, we decided to go back to gels.  We bought two new 8D gel cell batteries, plus replaced one of the gel starting batteries with a size 27 gel to add to the house bank, which gives us a capacity of slightly more than we had - about 540 amp-hours.  For our starting battery we bought an orbital spiral style battery of size 27, specifically designed to be a maintenance-free, reliable starting battery.  So far we've had no trouble, but of course things are still new...
  Our old batteries, installed 6/1999, were AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) size 8D. AGM batteries were originally designed for military aircraft and are fairly new to the recreational boating industry, but they seem really appropriate: they recharge faster and discharge longer than other types of batteries, and are submersible without damage, long-lasting, and maintenance-free. Two 8D (the largest size) will give our "house" battery bank a capacity of 510 amp-hours. We kept the existing two size 27 gel batteries as a dedicated engine starting bank.
  • Update 11/2000: The batteries have definitely lost some capacity but are still pretty good. We run them down regularly to what should be half-discharge level, 12.20 volts; our Heart monitor usually says we've reached that level after around 200 Ah rather than the 255 we would expect.
  • Update 1/2001: They just seem to be getting worse and worse. After being "fully charged" they rapidly drop to 12.75v, and within less than 100 Ah of use they are down to 12.3 or less. We can live with this, but we're certainly not happy about it, and plan to call the company (Lifeline) to find out what's happening.
  • Update 3/2001: Lifeline replaced the batteries for free at the end of January. The new ones are behaving well, but we are going to be a lot more careful about charging (particularly the float voltage) and we'll see what happens.
  • Update 6/2001: The new batteries are acting pretty much like the old ones. This is quite disappointing, although since we generally have lots of alternate energy flowing in, it's not much of a problem (unless the sun fails to shine and the wind fails to blow for a few days running).
  • Update 1/2002: Equalizing every so often (more than just once or twice a year) seems to help. Letting the wind and solar generators charge the battery unregulated is a good way of equalizing, provided we're already nearly full and have good wind and sun.
  • Update 7/2002: Now will be a good test as the boat is in long term storage. AGM batteries are not supposed to have internal discharge. We will see.
  • Update 2/2005: See new battery information at top.
  
  
• Inverter/charger (installed 5/1999): Statpower Prosine 2.5. This inverter produces true sine wave AC power, which our computers appreciate. It also is "smart" enough to handle the charging characteristics of our high-tech batteries, although it doesn't specifically handle AGMs.
  • Update 11/2000: Actually, it has turned out to be a little inconvenient that it doesn't handle AGMs, because we can't equalize them with the correct voltage. (Equalization of AGM batteries is at lower voltage than with traditional unsealed batteries.) We have to wait for a long day of motoring and equalize with the alternator. (Of course, this is only needed a few times a year.)
  • Update 12/2002: One feature we did not really pay attention to at first, but has been real useful, is the ability of this device to limit the input draw from the shore power source. This is real useful in many places where the shore power cannot even provide 15 AC amps. Rather than fight and blow the circuit like others, we just dial down the Statpower to only draw 10 amps and live on that.
  • Update 7/2003: Again, at the crummy boatyard, there is real poor power with a trip happy breaker. Set power in to be limited to 10 amps which just runs the room air conditioner and a few other things.
  • Update 2/2005: This continues to work well.
  
  
• Alternator (installed 6/1999): Balmar large-frame high-output. (Some photos showing how we fit it to our motor are on our systems page.) Big batteries need big charging, and this alternator will give us up to 210 amps. This will help keep engine run time down. The first Balmar regulator (MC-512) we got was defective, but Balmar provided us with a replacement that worked just fine, until our wiring mistake caused it to catch fire. Balmar replaced our third with the new MC-612 in June 2000, when the alternator temperature sensor failed, but it seemed flaky so we are continuing to use the MC-512 (with a new temperature sensor).
  • Update 7/2003: In all our 3 years, this alternator has continued to work well. We only replaced the dual belts one time so far when we heard a bit of squeek from them. This setup now has over 1300 hours (not too many over 3 1/2 yrs! alternate power).
  • Update 2/2005:  We continue to be happy with this alternator, although with the new gel cell battery setup, we're not using near its full capacity.  We did break a belt while underway - probably they got brittle during storage, so we replaced all the belts.
  
  
• Wind generator (installed 1/2000): We have a Fourwinds II. With a breeze around 10 knots, it makes 1-4 amps; with 15-20 knots we get 6-9. The most we've seen is around 11 (after rewiring for greater efficiency). It makes a quiet whooshing noise which is fairly inobtrusive, especially when compared to some of the loud models (e.g. Air Marine) which we can hear across a large anchorage. It does interfere with our SSB radio reception, particularly on the 8 meg frequencies. The manual is terrible, and the installation procedure is somewhat tough as you must drill and tap the mount, but the Fourwinds II provides the best combination of power output and low noise level that we have seen.
  • Update 11/2000: Boy, do we love this wind generator!
  • Update 1/2001: We rewired the wind generator using relays to eliminate some long runs to switches we rarely or never use. We think this will give us a little more efficiency (i.e. more power! We generated 170 amp hours 1 windy day.)
  • Update 6/2001: Our biggest problem with this wind generator is that it seems to have a magnetic attraction for our fishing line. We've "caught" it three times so far...
  • Update 12/2001: The wind generator fell off into the water while at anchor in Blanquilla, the fault of an inadequate mount installed by Kato Marine on our otherwise excellent arch. After a good cleaning and repair / replacement of broken parts, we reinstalled it and it "keeps on ticking!" It might be a little less effective than before, though.
  • Update 2/2005: We're pretty sure that we're not seeing the kind of power we used to see from the wind generator.  Eventually we may replace it with a new model, or replace the motor. 
  
  
• Solar panels (installed 1/2001): We mounted three Siemens SM55 panels on our equipment arch. In good conditions they would each produce about 3 amps, but since we can't tilt them to match the sun angle and the stays and other equipment shade some of the panels depending on our position relative to the sun, we usually see between 3 and 6 amps during daylight hours. (The most we have seen is 6.6 so far.)
  • Update 6/2001: Now that we're further south (southern Windward islands) we are seeing 6-9 amps during daylight hours. Whee!
  • Update 12/2001: When the wind generator fell off, it completely shattered and bent up one of the solar panels. It still makes power, but we expect it to quit working soon. Down to two good panels, and in the depths of winter, we are getting far less juice from the sun.
  • Update 3/2002: We guess these panels are pretty hardy, because the damaged panel is still working well. Now that the sun is heading this way again, we are seeing lots of amps on sunny days.
  • Update 7/2002: Don't quite know what to do with the shattered panel, so left it in the boat for storage. The two good panels are now mounted on top of our RV.
  • Update 2/2003: Solar panels on the RV are keeping the RV batteries nicely charged through the depths of the Colorado winter.
  • Update 2/2005: This model was discontinued, alas, but we were able to buy an older one that had been stored and not used, and replaced the shattered one.  Everything seems to be working well with these panels.

House

• Refrigerator (installed 7/1999): Glacier Bay 12v system with a Mark II compressor. We opted to get a fridge only, with no freezer, since we can make ice on the holding plate, and freezers require a lot of energy. It seems like a robust and efficient system. In hot weather its total daily power use is about 36 amp-hours. This was a difficult system to install, and required many trips to hardware, plumbing, and marine stores to buy lots of specialized equipment in addition to that provided by the manufacturer.
  • Update 11/2000: We noticed over time that the cycle time decreased (from 12-15 hours between cycles to 6-8 hours) but that the run time each cycle also decreased, so the power consumption remained about the same. The holding plate frosts over quickly and thickly, and while using the fridge it's hard to completely defrost it, as the back of the plate is hard to access. After decommissioning the fridge for haul-out and then restarting it two weeks later, we find that we are back to long cycles. This could be because of the cold ambient temperature, or because of the defrosting -- don't know yet. While in the Bahamas, I was wishing we had a freezer for keeping all the fish we caught, but in general not having a freezer is not a problem.
  • Update 4/2002: Fridge junction box turned into a corroded mess due to brine leak from watermaker (and poor design in the first place, and a jury-rig fix from an earlier problem which left the box lid open). We redesigned the wiring and built a much nicer junction box. This time we mounted it in a leak-proof spot!
  • Update 2/2005:  One of these days we need to better insulate the box.  But overall we are happy with the system and are making ice and not expending too much energy (but higher than our previous estimate, more like 50 ah/day).
  • Update 4/2005:  Glacier Bay confirmed our guess that the ever-longer running time meant that our fridge was low on coolant.  In George Town we bought a canister of R134a gas, figured out how to hook it up, and recharged the system - yay, it works fine again!
  
  
• Watermaker (installed 1/2000): We bought a Spectra 200c reverse osmosis system, with an extra feed pump so that we can use it as a 380c system (9 gallons per hour running one pump, 17 gph running both). We chose Spectra because it is the most energy efficient system, and it is degraded the least by running at a lower voltage (i.e., it does not need to have the engine running in order to make water). The manual is very good, and installation was relatively easy (for a major system). We are very pleased with the way it works.
  • Update 11/2000: We could not run the watermaker with both pumps at once, because they would overheat and stop. We needed to run each pump for no more than 40-60 minutes at a time, then switch to the other pump, and we usually would open up the settee it's installed in to increase air circulation. Over the summer we ordered pump fans from Spectra which should solve the overheating problem. We are also planning to replumb the system so we can direct the water into either of our two water tanks.
  • Update 3/2001: After recommissioning the watermaker and making the changes above, everything works just fine. The accumulator diaphragm had a hole in it (probably from last year), and Spectra sent us a replacement along with some additional parts to slightly change the plumbing of the pressure gauge.
  • Update 4/2002: Fixed leaks in membrane housing ends, have a new leak in the Clark pump which might be due to the old pickling solution (now discontinued by Spectra).
  • Update 2/2005:  Leaked horridly on recommissioning - turns out that Spectra has new membrane housing end caps to fix the leak problem, so bought those and installed them with good results.  Recently the Clark pump has developed a whistling noise which may be due to wear in one of the valves or rings - it still works, and Spectra has advised us to keep using it, although we might need to obtain some new parts for the Clark pump and repair it.  We should point out that in actual use the flow is 7 gph with one pump, 12 with two - this is not a decrease during its lifetime but our measured results, as opposed to the theoretical results published by Spectra.  We have seen the flow decrease slightly over time, but not by much.
  • Update 5/2005:  The watermaker failed due to a cracked annular ring; via email Spectra gave us instructions for a temporary repair, and arranged to have new rings delivered to us (free, as a warranty repair) by a cruiser who reps them in the Bahamas.  The temporary repair lasted for two weeks, long enough to make a reserve water supply so that we were ok until we got the parts.
  
  
• Heater/hot water system (installed 11/2000): Webasto DBW 2010. This is a diesel furnace which heats water and circulates it through the boat, with blower fans to spread the heat into the cabins. A heat exchanger connects to the domestic water system for instant hot water. It was a big job to install!
  • Update 1/2001: The furnace takes noticeable electrical power to run, but it has been wonderful to have heat during this record-breaking cold winter (even in Florida!). The boat warms up quickly, and when all we want is hot water, the furnace makes that even quicker.
  • Update 6/2001: Even though heating the air in the boat is the last thing on our minds, it's still really nice to have the heater since we can make hot water in just a few minutes, without running the engine. Sure nice to have a hot shower after hours in the salty water.
  • Update 2/2005: No problems with this wonderful heater!

Instruments

• GPS (installed 11/1999): We have a Garmin 128 in the cockpit, with a data cable running to our nav station where we interface it to a computer for navigation. It acquires satellites quickly and is easy to use and program. The only thing we don't like about it is that routes are limited to 30 waypoints. We also have a handheld Garmin GPS II+, with a power/data cable to run from our boat batteries and connect to our computers, as a backup. Garmin has excellent customer service and they make great products.
  • Update 7/2002: Worked perfectly and reliably through the whole cruise.
  • Update 2/2005: Once we remembered the settings we needed to get it talking to our other instruments, worked like a charm.
  
  
• Navigation software (installed 10/1999): We use Nobeltec's Visual Navigation Suite. We vastly prefer it to The Cap'n, which is better known and seems to be in wider use. We especially like the user interface, the ease in interfacing with other instruments (although they could have done a better job), and the quilting which with most charts is utterly seamless. We use electronic charts (on CD) almost exclusively. We have two old Compaq laptops which we use.
  • Update 11/2000: We have had a few crashes here and there but nothing we couldn't recover from. We are still running version 4 as we are undecided about upgrading to version 5, which is compatible with vector charts and supposedly has a better version of the tides and currents software.
  • Update 6/2001: We got a copy of version 5 from a friend to try out. We prefer version 4. Version 5 has lots of "improvements" which slow things down and make the program bigger, but none of the improvements that we would have put in if we were writing the software.
  • Update 2/2005:  Still happy with this software.  We've seen version 7 and it uses Passport charts which are nice, but uncopyable, so we're sticking with what we have.
  
  
• Radar (installed 7/2000): Furuno 841 Mark 2. It works just fine, although we haven't yet figured out how to interface it to our other instruments.
  • Update 2/2001: After looking at the installation on another boat, Britt figured out the missing piece of the puzzle and got the radar NMEA interface working. Now we can see heading information and other data on the radar screen!
  • Update 2/2005:  Still works fine.
    
  
  
• SSB (installed 10/1999): ICOM 710 RT. Installing SSB radios is an art. We don't have an insulated backstay, but just let our whole (non-grounded) rig radiate; we have been told that the masthead connection is not a good RF conductor back into the mast, so that in effect we have a more-or-less insulated backstay. For a ground plane we connect to the arch and lifelines. We are generally told that our signal is excellent. The learning curve with the ICOM is about like getting the VCR to stop flashing 12:00, but once we programmed it the way we wanted it became very easy to use. We just wish we could figure out a way to keep our transmissions from interfering with our autopilot!
  • Update 2/2005:  Corrosion ate a hole through some of our copper foil connecting our ground plane, but we patched it with a new piece and things seem to be working fine.  Still have bad interference with the autopilot, though.

Ground tackle

• Windlass (installed 6/1999): Lofrans Progress 1. This choice was dictated largely by our anchor locker configuration and our decision to use 5/16" chain and 5/8" line for our anchor rodes. It works just fine both for hauling up our anchor, and for hoisting either of us to the top of the mast.
  • Update 7/2002: With routine maintenance, the windlass has been a reliable workhorse.
  • Update 2/2005: The motor housing showed a lot of corrosion while the boat was stored, but we cleaned and recoated it with paint, and things seem to be just fine.
  
  
• Anchors: (2/2005) 45# CQR primary on about 75' of chain and 230' of line, 22# Danforth HT secondary on 50' chain plus 175' line.  We wish we had more chain on the primary, but our original 300' rusted into a big pile of ick, and we chopped out the biggest piece that was in good condition.  Eventually we'd like perhaps 150-200 feet; 300 is overkill for most places, and just deteriorates in the anchor locker.  Our very-rarely-used stern anchor is a 25# Danforth with 8' chain and 100' line.  Our dinghy anchor is a 4# Danforth with 6 feet of 5/16" chain and 100 feet of (thin) line, which is beefier ground tackle than most 30' powerboats seem to use! 
  
  Our original ground tackle when we set out crusing was:  45# CQR (primary, on 300' chain plus 150' line) and 35# aluminum Spade (secondary, on 50' chain plus 150' line, bought 12/1999). We also have a 22# Danforth Hi-Tensile. The CQR is bomber in most conditions. The Danforth is the only thing that works in soupy mud. Our dinghy anchor is a 4# Danforth with 6 feet of 5/16" chain and 100 feet of (thin) line, which is beefier ground tackle than most 30' powerboats seem to use!
  • Update 11/2000: We have decided to sell the Spade and buy either another CQR or a Delta. The Spade doesn't set reliably enough; it's frustrating to be trying to do a Bahamian moor with one anchor setting but the other dragging. Everyone is amazed, since Spade's reputation as the wonder anchor is so good, but we suspect that the aluminum version we got just isn't heavy enough to dig in. An expensive mistake.
  • Update 1/2001: We dithered about the anchor situation and ended up keeping our Spade as a storm anchor (since when it sets it is bomber, but getting it to set is sometimes hard) with our CQR as primary and the Danforth as secondary. If we can find a used 60# CQR we will swap that onto the primary, the 45# onto the secondary, and move the Danforth to the stern.
  • Update 6/2001: We found a 25# Danforth (Standard, so it doesn't have as much holding as our 22# Danforth Hi-Tensile secondary) in an anchorage at Culebrita (off the coast of Puerto Rico), and have set that up as a stern anchor. It has about 8 feet of fairly beat chain on it, and we have the original primary anchor rode of a little under 200' to use with it. Less than two weeks later, in St. Martin, we found an 18-20# "Britany" anchor, sort of a modified Danforth, which had some light chain on it. We swapped this chain onto our dinghy anchor, and plan to put the dinghy anchor chain (which was overkill) onto the stern anchor. We still don't know what we'll do with the Britany -- it's small for our boat, but way too big for a dinghy anchor. (Ended up selling it.)
  • Update 8/2001: Final straw for the Spade. In trying to set up 3 anchors as a mooring to leave our boat for a month, the CQR and 22#Danforth set bomber with a few minutes of effort each. The Spade never did set after half a day of trying everything. I finally had to dive down in the harbor into about 35 feet of water, dig a hole, and place it by hand to get it to set!
  • Update 8/2002: Put Spade in a consignment store north of Ft. Myers, FL advertised as a storm anchor with warnings of difficulty in setting. It did sell for $180. I am glad to be rid of that! (Interesting note: The designer of Spade was pointed to our various complaints about it, and emailed us to ask for details. I did my best to explain how it has not worked and in what conditions, as well as my analysis of why (too light for penetration area). The maker cites others with good experiences and did offer to exchange our aluminum for steel, although shipping costs nixed that, but we appreciated the offer. The steel version is probably a great anchor.)

Other

• Dinghy : Apex A10. This is a RIB -- inflatable tubes and a rigid hull. It planes like a sports car and rows like, well, it rows like a dinghy. We have room for lots of groceries. It leaks a little (air, not water) so we need to pump it up every week or so.
  • Update 6/2001: It leaks a lot. We have found some leaks and patched them, but it's still a problem. We hope to get some stuff that's sort of like a dinghy "Fix-a-flat" to plug up the leaks from the inside. (Note: never did get the stuff, just kept pumping every couple days.)
  • Update 2/2005:  We finally got the dinghy repair stuff, and it seems to have done the trick!  No more flat dinghy.
  • Update 5/2005: Wow, it's great to have to pump it up only once a month or so!
  
  
• Dinghy outboard : Suzuki 15hp 4-stroke. We got the quietest motor we could find, and the largest we could heft (with assist from a halyard). We are really happy with this motor. It's so quiet at idle that the person at the bow has to ask the person at the motor if it's running! Since it's a 4-stroke, it's quieter and less polluting than a 2-stroke, and we don't have to mess with oil/gas mixing.
  • Updated 3/2001: We spun the prop a few weeks ago and had to order a replacement to be shipped in to the Bahamas for us. The disadvantage of the Suzuki (perhaps the only disadvantage!) is that they are not as widespread as other makes and therefore it's harder to find parts.
  • Update 7/2002: Motor kept working great. We always seemed to be the fastest and quietest 15 hp around. We are glad we managed to keep it from being stolen (no easy feat).
  • Update 2/2005:  Had to replace the fuel pump diaphragm, which had dried out and cracked in storage, and it now works fine.
  
  
• Bicycles : Montague MXB folding bicycles. This is their aluminum "X-frame" mountain bike version with front shocks; they are full-size bikes. We use them frequently both as transportation and as recreation. I have read some cruisers' comments that they felt their bikes were a waste of space and money, and that they never used them. I feel that if you were a bike commuter, rode a bike for errands, or just went out on lots of bike rides before becoming a cruiser, you will find a bike invaluable and use it a lot. If you weren't much of a bike rider in your previous life, and just think you might use one while cruising, you probably won't.
  • Update 7/2002: We did not get much use out of the bikes in the last year. Most islands in the southern Carribean are hot and have roads that are really dangerous. Now that we are back in US, we are using the bikes almost daily. They worked great in St. Pete, and now on the back of the RV are getting a lot of use. They held up probably better than most in the salty sea air. They do have some rust spots here and there, but still work well.
  • Update 11/2002: We have been riding the heck out of them around town, and on real mountain bike paths around Durango. What a treat! For mid-range, foldable bikes, they are great. For pure mountain biking, we see lots of lighter fancier models zip by us.
  • Update 2/2005:  We didn't take the bikes on our second cruise, as the Bahamas (at least, the part we go to) don't have a lot of roads.

Hall of Fame

It takes more than a good product to make a good company. The following companies have earned our lasting loyalty by their excellent customer service, above and beyond the call of duty:

• Garmin
  Fast and hassle-free warranty service on our handheld, and they updated the software while they had it.
• Spectra
  First they took back our leaky membrane and shipped us a new one. Then they responded immediately to an email call for help on a leaky accumulator bladder and shipped us a new one, plus parts to update our system to their new recommended configuration -- for free. They responded quickly by email to a request for help on a problem with our salinity tester, even though the tester is made by another company. When they discovered a problem with their pickling solution, they directed their distributors to hand out new solution for free to owners (we got some in Trinidad, no hassle). Their product is certainly the Rolls Royce of watermakers (and priced accordingly), but in addition they are a classy outfit and a pleasure to deal with.
  • Update 2/2005: More problems developed with our watermaker (we think that many new design elements have improved their system, so newer versions probably won't have the same problems) and Spectra continues to be responsive and helpful.
  • Update 5/2005: Spectra's willingness to help over email is super.  They continue to improve their products but still support the old stuff.  We really appreciate this company.
• Everfair Enterprises (Four Winds)
  When our wind generator fell off the boat, it was the fault of the welds on the arch, not the generator. But when we ordered a new prop shaft to replace the old one which had broken, and new bearings, Everfair only charged us shipping, treating it as a warranty repair. We didn't ask for the parts for free, but we really appreciate the service.